Comic Book Dry Cleaning
Save money by cleaning your own comic books with
basic office supplies or cleaning supplies. Most
supplies can be purchased directly on Amazon or
eBay to save time, money, and shipping costs. Start
small with some cheap dollar bin comic books or
reader copies. I have provided links for easy re-ordering,
and for clarification on materials required in this
free visual FAQ guide.
IS COMIC BOOK DRY CLEANING?
Comic book dry cleaning is the process of removing
stains or production roller marks using no harsh
chemicals or solvents. Comics can get stains on
them from time, aging, mildew, rust mitigation,
crayons, pen marks, pencil marks, date stamps, or
other hazards along the test of time. Many of these
cannot be removed. Good news: some of the more common
concerns can be safely removed. The idea is simple:
to clean the comic book as if nothing ever happened
to the book. This makes the overall grade and eye
appeal of the book increase considerably. Comic
book dry cleaning is not restoration, more like
comic book conservation. The difference can sometimes
mean thousands of dollars when discussing high dollar
key comic books.
This guide like my other one will require countless
hours of patience, practice and time. Click
on any photo to zoom to full size and see all its
glory before you.
MATERIALS NEEDED FOR CLEANING COMIC BOOKS
Most materials can be purchased on
Amazon or Ebay. Buy your SRP paper and backer boards
in bulk to save money where needed. Absorene Putty
lasts a long time as long as you keep the tub sealed
airtight when not in use. You will use a bone folder
for making new centerfold creases, and for use with
tack iron to fix blunted spine trauma. Here is a list of basic materials required for cleaning comics:
Patience and time for all
the countless hours you will put into learning
putty 15 oz tub should be reordered
over time and throw away each piece after each
use. Cannot be reused to be effective. Do
not use on Modern Age glossy covers.
Dirt Eraser Pad
should be reordered over time
and thrown away after it has become too dirty
to be effective. Cannot be cleaned.
Clean Magic Erasers
, no scent or fragrance-free.
Cut your own 1″ cubes to size. Throw away after
1 use. Cannot be reused.
Lots of non glossy cardboard
comic book backer boards of various sizes and
Age sized Mylite2+Fullbacks for transporting/handling/cleaning/flipping/spinning
Phone or tablet for photos of your process
Lotion free Kleenex tissues,
a dust cloth, or a can of compressed air to blow
away dust shavings while cleaning and prepping.
Sheeting drop cloths. 4' ft x 5' ft work space
area at minimum for your work surface and supplies
- in a climate controlled room. Do not clean comics
in your attic or garage. Purchase some drop cloth
plastic sheeting to keep dust and contaminents away
from your work area.
Flathead screwdriver (staples,
positioning, pushing down flat)
Putty or paint knife (staples,
positioning, pushing down flat)
from the beauty department of any local
store like Target or Walmart. Use these first
to remove loose dirt and grime from any comic
Dry Mop Refill Sheets
from the cleaning department
of any local store like Target or Walmart. Use
these above all to remove loose dirt and grime
from any comic book. This is an amazing product
right here, folks.
Folder tool for pushing down staples on squarebounds,
working out spine blunts and making new centerfold
for use with magazine backer boards.
Assemble a few pairs and have ready for transferring
and flipping comic books over.
Click on each button to order online:
COMIC BOOK TOOLBOX
Use all the tools in
your toolbox for dry cleaning comics. This ranges
from non-invasive to more aggressive stages of comic
book dry cleaning.
The comic book dry cleaning tools used to safely
and effectively clean comics. These products are highly
recommended for cleaning comics.
You will use many different
products to clean comics. These are the main tools
you will need to use. All of these products should
be used gently and lightly. Small circular motions,
back and forth, left to right, diagonally. Try different
light motions to see which motion will effectively
lift a light stain or debris from comic book covers.
Here is a full list of tools from left to right, row
Absorene Eraser Pad
Makeup remover Cotton Ovals
Makeup remover Cotton Rounds
Toungue Depressor / Craft Sticks
Number 2 Pencils with White soft eraser caps
UV Black Light Flashlight
Pocket handheld pen flashlight
Small flathead screwdriver
1.5" Ball Bearing or Massage Roller Ball
Dentail Picks and Dental Mirror
Absorene Book Cleaner Putty
Kleenex Small Lotion Free Tissues
Infared IR Thermometer Gun
Mr Clean Magic Erasers in various cube sizes cut
Hangar 9 Tack Iron
Also, worthy of consideration is Swiffer brand
dry mop dust sheets as cleaning pads. This
product is great and will safely lift most dirt and
grime layers off comic books. Try it!
My dry cleaning toolbox of various tools and cleaners.
My most widely used items I placed inside a metal
storage tin. The other less used items or items that
take up space I placed in a larger plastic storage
container. Take notice of the ball bearing, magnifying
glass, jeweler's loop, kneaded eraser, natural sea
sponges, pencils with eraser tops, UV blacklight flashlight,
Absorene putty, and two Absorene book cleaner pads.
CLEANING COMICS IN STAGES
What I do is approach
every book with cautious cleaning tactics first, to
see what is effective with the least effort. Less
invasive first, to a more increased aggressive cleaning
stage each time, to see what works. I like to start
small, slowly increasing my efforts:
First, start by carefully chipping
or scraping away gunk, boogers, candy, or mud with
a dental pick. Press down staples flat with a putty
knife or flathead screwdriver. Those 2 are priority
before you begin dry cleaning:
Start small and work your way down
the list one-by-one as needed:
1. Swiffer Dust Sheets,
Lotion free tissue, or a cotton round from beauty
2. Pencil Eraser Head Top + Absorene Book Cleaner
Pad (for cleaning eraser top)
3. Unscented Dryer Sheet with eraser head as a "handle"
4. Unscented Paper Towel with eraser head as a "handle"
5. Absorene Eraser Pad
6. Absorene Book Cleaner Putty
7. Unscented/untreated original Mr Clean Magic Eraser
8. Natural sea sponges
And if you alternate all of them together
you will yield better results. For instance, go back
and forth between the magic eraser and absorene book
cleaner putty along the spine to clean out all the
dirt that gets pushed into the trenches of the creases.
The Mr. Clean Magic Eraser is harsh and should be
used lightly on light colored or white colored covers
and avoid red/black/yellow if you can.
DOES THIS COMIC BOOK
NEED TO BE CLEANED?
The first question you should ask is: Does this
book need to be dry cleaned? Signs the book would
benefit from dry cleaning:
Production roller marks
- Preparation for a comic book convention for a
Using a third
party presser prior to using a grading service
for a signature series yellow label
- Pencil writing marks
- Dirt sheen
- Skin and dander oil
- Wax crayon
DEFECTS AND WRITING
Dry cleaning comic books improves the overall look
and feel of a book. It is not divine intervention.
Things dry cleaning will not fix:
Kool-Aid or Coffee/Tea
pen, crayon, marker, Sharpie pen
that travel through then entire book on every
Crease lines with
missing ink (color breaks)
ON 6 TYPES OF COMIC BOOKS
You will need to practice first on 6 basic types of
comic books to learn the process slowly. Practice
on your own books first. Practice treating each book
as if it were priceless.
- Golden Age Comic Books
- Silver Age Comic Books
- Bronze Age Comic Books
- Modern Age Comic Books
- Convention Exclusive Foil Edition Comic
Books (Convention exclusives) are more
intimidating if anything. Watch your fingerprints!
Always wear gloves.
- Modern Age Marvel books have
digital code inserts found at the last 4 pages.
You will need to use copy paper sheets, or a magazine
backer board to prevent the 1″ square digital
code from imprinting on last 4-5 pages and back
cover. Do not press down too hard while cleaning
There are more to practice on, but this is a great
head start for the learning process. Different books
require different angles of approach. Practice how
you handle a comic book as well. Always wear gloves.
Always lift and remove comics from their bag/board
by pulling the entire comic and board from the bag.
Always use a second bag/board to flip books over so
they are supported.
Wear a fresh pair of latex
gloves as you get started. Take a moment to examine
the book. Always lift comic books out with the backer
board as you slide them out of the bag. You do not
want to scratch the back cover. Do not press
books with food, gum, or candy debris. You
will need to remove it prior to pressing. Even if
this means scraping or damaging part of the book
to get it off. Sometimes color breaks and ink removal
are part of the debris removal. You have to use
judgement and experience whether it will benefit
or harm the book's overall value, condition, and
appearance. Mark Jeweler insert comic books and
other books with centerfold posters should be okay.
Digital codes and tattooz inserts are different
and will require a few extra steps covered elsewhere
in the guide.
so what are you looking for prior to pressing or
cleaning a comic book? Research is part of your
job. Especially if the book is to be sent off for
grading with CGC or CBCS or PGX. Look at every angle,
every corner of the book. Take photos with your
tablet or phone. Take extra time to inspect the
corners and spine around the staples. What is the
difference between a 9.8 and a 9.6? 1 tiny color
breaking spine tick or edgewear. Seriously. Assume
that all books are a 5.0 and add or subtract points
based off the following criteria:
for and count the spine ticks.
breaking lines along the spine.
along the spine.
along the top and bottom covers.
on the corners.
or light scratches on the back cover.
valuable key books should be inspected for color
touch, just in case.
Staple replacement. Verify staple prongs line
up with indents.
Gloss or missing gloss on cover.
Writing on cover.
Writing on interior pages.
Missing interior wraps. (may or may not effect
Inserts. (research: poster centerfold, advertisements,
tattooz, stickers, coupons)
Spine splits at top or bottom.
1" or longer tear on cover.
Page Quality. (White, Off-White, Cream, Tan)
Page count. (research: verify there are no missing
Rust, Foxing, or Tanning. (brown or black spots)
shade, sun fading.
Use a dental pick and
scraper to carefully lift and place tears or folds
where they should be before pressing or cleaning.
As long as the book
is not brittle or rigid… Look for corner flaps and
tears that need to be set in place. This step should
be done first while the book is dry and not under
any heat or pressure. You will use a dental pick and
scraper for this step. If the book is too brittle
or old, then you should use the humidity chamber approach
after cleaning the covers instead.
It may be tempting to
just use your fingernail, but could potentially rip
or tear the crease worse. Dirt and oil under your
fingernails could get trapped in the paper fibers
as well. Golden age books are very forgiving with
corner flaps and minor tears.
You want to do this step first before
cleaning or pressing. This step is important to try
to inspect the book carefully and turn each page for
inspection. You are also looking for cutouts, missing
pages, and missing centerfolds during this stage.
Absorene Dirt Eraser
Pads are the greatest tool to start with dry cleaning
the cover of your book. Get
one here at this link on Amazon.
CLEANING COMIC BOOK TIPS
First start off wiping the cover with a cotton round,
lotion free kleenex tissues, or a Swiffer wipe. Use
a dental pick and scraper to carefully lift and place
tears or folds where they should be before pressing
or cleaning. For dry cleaning, it’s always best to
start in a non-aggressive manner, so start small with
just a simple clean eraser from a Number 2 pencil.
I also use eraser tops as well. You will need to clean
your pencil eraser often as you lift the dirt and
oils from your comic book.
Cleaning a book should be approached
in stages. Starting with latex rubber gloves, use
a dental pick for lifting up folds and creases. Do
this first. Lightly dust off and wipe the surface
clean lightly with a lotion free Kleenex, dust cloth,
or a can of compressed air. Try using a regular unsharpened
#2 pencil eraser end to remove light staining on cover.
This noninvasive method is recommended before using
My #1 favorite
tool in the toolbox: Helix brand white polymer eraser
Use the Absorense Eraser Pad to clean
your pencil eraser top.
Next, if you have an Absorene Dirt
Eraser Pad, wipe this across the surface of both front
and back covers. Use the eraser pad lightly, let the
weight of the pad be the only pressure as you gently
glide it across the cover surface to remove dirt and
Dirt and oil grime from production
on a brand new modern age marvel 1:1000 retailer incentive
copy of Venom #1 (2018)
(After) Dirt and oil grime removed
from production on a brand new modern age marvel 1:1000
retailer incentive copy of Venom #1 (2018) Using a
simple pencil eraser top.
For those of you who struggle with "taking a
little too much off the top" using a pencil cap
eraser for cleaning: practice on a book with an all-black
back cover ad for TSR games. (Please - Not an Amazing
Spider-man 300!) This would be an excellent type of
book that will test your limits on fingerprints, gloss,
black ink, and white letters. In the following examples
of WEB OF SPIDER-MAN #36 (1st Tombstone) I have exercised
great restraint while cleaning this cover. I started
with a Swiffer dry sweeper wipe, and used only a pencil
eraser and Absorene book cleaner pad for cleaning
my eraser tip. You hold the pencil by the un-sharpened
opposite end very loosely, completely with a limp
wrist. If you hold the pencil this way, you move your
entire arm in light circular swirls, clockwise, then
counter-clockwise, whichever works best. Do not use
your wrist or hands. You should be putting all the
pressure at your elbows and not the eraser cap. This
method will prevent taking gloss, color rub, and scratches!
If the eraser is ineffective, alternate with Absorene
book cleaner pad as well, then the Swiffer duster
sheet. If you are successful, then you will see only
"brownish yellow" or "black" colors
on your eraser tips. There should be no blue tint
to your black dirt eraser crumbles on the tip or table
surface. A blue tint to your blacks means you are
taking the black ink. Furthermore, this method works
on all colors and covers, so you should never see
color on your pencil eraser caps. If you do, back
off and clean your eraser tip and use even LESS pressure
than what you just did. Keep regularly checking your
eraser cap after each cleaning with your Absorene
book cleaner pad. Remember: if the dirt isn't coming
up on your pencil eraser cap or swiffer dust sheet,
then it's not going to be removed. This is okay, remember
that our job here is to clean and press, not restore
or repair. This is a patient man's game and will take
time. Allow me to remind you that if you spend an
hour (or more) cleaning a book it's worth it once
it's been placed inside a plastic graded case.
So this is a pretty big secret,
even if you don’t press comics! You can clean
most comic book covers in this manner, regardless
if you are pressing the book or not! You don’t need
a press in order to perform this method.
Use Absorene putty next to delicately
lift dirt and oils. You roll lightly and gently across
the surface to remove and clean the paper at its fibers.
If you do not have Absorene, try using a regular pencil
eraser or a gum kneaded eraser. You will have to knead
and work in the eraser until it becomes soft like
the Absorene. Never rub the kneaded eraser, always
blot or push downwards then lift upwards with straight
up and down motions. Never use the kneaded gum eraser
sideways or against the paper grain. Most of the time,
90% of the time, the pencil eraser and absorene eraser
pad will do most of the work for you. If you cannot
lift a stain, that’s okay – just remember we are not
restoring comic books.
Go slow with the Absorene around corners
and tears. You should place a perpendicular mylite2+fullback
against your hand so that you do not lift up the cover
or page being cleaned.
TO USE ABSORENE PUTTY
Absorene comes inside a small plastic storage tub.
It looks and feels like Play-doh. You want to take
small 1/2″ cubes and roll it across the surface of
your book covers and pages for dry chemical free cleaning.
You will roll very lightly with light pressure as
you roll “logs” across the surface being cleaned.
I also have great results with warming the book up
in the press for 5 minutes on each side on low heat
at 150 degrees. When using the Absorene, take great
care along cover edges and corners or you will lift
up the cover unexpectedly and cause a crease. Worse
yet, if you go too fast due to being impatient with
your time – you can cause a rip and tear the cover.
It helps tremendously to use backer boards to the
left and right of the areas being rolled with Absorene.
Try it to see if this works for you.
BOOK CLEANER PUTTY WARNING
Absorene Book Cleaner Putty should be used only on
older books with covers that are not glossy or shiny.
Avoid modern comic books with paper thin covers. The
putty can easily rub into the book cover and cause
severe and permanent damage. This is why I would suggest
trying a pencil eraser or kneaded eraser on Modern
Age books, instead. The Absorene Book Cleaner Putty
works best on Silver Age, Copper Age, Dark Age and
even most Bronze Age books. Any book produced after
the year 2000 should be tested out on a reader copy
first when considering the Absorene Putty. See below:
2018 Marvel Comics VENOM #3 San
Diego Comic Con Exclusive
MR CLEAN MAGIC ERASERS AND ABSORENE TOGETHER
Cut 1″ cubes of Mr Clean Magic Eraser to alternate
from Absorene and Eraser along spines. Never reuse
a magic eraser cube. Apply firm but gentle pressure
against book. Erasers are best used for white or light
covers. Avoid red and black with the magic eraser!
For small spaces or
around dark print area, use a pencil eraser with a
tiny torn off piece of clean magic eraser material.
Use the pencil as a hand tool to better control the
magic eraser around corners, spines, or red/black/yellow
Magic Erasers are great for white
rear covers or white front covers. Warning: Black,
Red and Yellow ink are easily lifted off the cover
with the Magic Eraser! Use a Mr. Clean magic eraser
very carefully. Always cut fresh 1” cubes with scissors.
If you try to keep re-using the same magic eraser,
you will start rubbing dirt into all the crease lines
of comics, which creates new dark crease lines and
makes the visual appeal start to drop significantly,
so be warned about the magic eraser! Use this product
with light pressure. Never use circular swirls when
trying to lift up staining with a magic eraser. Make
swift light strokes in one direction, never back and
forth, and never in swirls. This will take time. Do
not wax on and wax off. You only wax one way. You
do not want to send the very same dirt lifted up from
the magic eraser into a crease line crevice or crack
For small spaces or
around dark print area, use a pencil eraser with a
tiny torn off piece of clean magic eraser material.
Use the pencil as a hand tool to better control the
magic eraser around corners, spines, or red/black/yellow
This is why you should alternate with
the Absorene and the Magic Eraser. After using the
Magic Eraser, it causes white powder dust shavings
filled with dirt and oil. Even using a new Magic Eraser
cube will push those shavings and dust back into the
cracks and crevices of the spine being worked on.
You will need to blow the dust away with a can of
air. Alternate and use the Absorene to clean the area
just cleaned with the Magic Eraser. Back and forth.
Patience is key. Sometimes it feels like the Absorene
just isn’t working but it is. Keep at it and you will
eventually start to see staining and other debris
being lifted slowly. It takes time to figure this
one out. The magic eraser is very forgiving on white
or light covers. However, use extreme caution using
this technique on all black covers or very dark covers.
The magic eraser does lift ink! Because of this, most
professionals do not advise using a Mr Clean Magic
Eraser. Most will suggest to use Absorene, because
it is actually made for cleaning historical documents
and archival paper such as the Library of Congress.
If you are just starting out and learning the whole
process, try using these products on some cheap books
first to get a feel of the process. Remember, this
is just a guide for beginners!
Before and after back
cover photos of upper right corner dirt oil buildup
along a staple bump. Magic Eraser and Absorene did
wonders to this corner with minimal effort to lift
Before and after back cover photos
of upper right corner dirt oil buildup along a staple
bump. Magic Eraser and Absorene did wonders to this
corner with minimal effort to lift the staining.
AND SCRATCHES ON GLOSSY OR FOIL COVERS
Wear latex gloves. Use a small 2"
square of SRP Paper and spin a pencil eraser top back
and forth for a long deep scratch. Use a lotion free,
fragrance free kleenex tissue folded and start lightly
buffing in circles using little to no pressure at
all for light or faint scratches. Unscented dryer
sheets sometimes work, too. Many deep scratches on
black covers cannot be removed.
For fingerprints, wear
gloves and use two wadded up lotion free, fragrance
free kleenex tissues, buffing in circles using little
to no pressure at all. It helps to exhale your warm
breath across the surface before buffing an area.
The safest method for fingerprints and scratches is:
1. Wear gloves
2. Lotion free, fragrance free kleenex tissues
3. Buff in circles using little to no pressure at
Staples can push through the front and rear cover.
Dirt and oil like to get trapped around elevated bumps
along staple on back cover. Cleaning staples is not
recommended either. Watch for rub and try not to clean
them or scratch them up too much. It can be evident
if there is staple cleaning with third party Grading
Companies such as CGC and CBCS so I caution you on
scuffing up staples. Rusty staples should be lightly
scuffed but I would not recommend it.
There is a dedicated Facebook Group called "KaptainMyke
Comic Book Pressing" for anyone to join and contribute
ideas open for discussion. Ask questions about this
guide or show off your own books! Anyone is welcome
to join. I firmly believe the spread of accurate free
information will help us all keep books preserved
and conserved. You may find the Facebook Group at
this link here: https://www.facebook.com/groups/kaptainmykecomicpressing
Try to be non-invasive with your books. Start small
and work your way up to more aggressive tactics when
removing stubborn stains or writing. These tips will
hopefully save you money, and guide you along the
way as YOU learn and pick up new ideas and better
ways to accomplish things.
I've had a number of
people ask me via email if I have a paypal account
for sending donations as a way of saying "thanks"
for the continuing efforts of this "living document"
teaching people how to safely press comic books. This
is not required by any means, but if you feel compelled
to do so, you may send a donation to this link: http://bit.ly/2SMgWOM
Here is a list of common questions often asked in
our Facebook group. Chances are, it's been asked many
times over, so I decided to insert this added section
right here for you all to review.
Is this the only
"correct" way to clean comic books?
No! There are many ways to clean comic books.
Many professionals do it differently! There is always
more than one way to achieve the same favorable results.
I rubbed too
much of the gloss off cover of book. Can this be repaired
Sorry, loss of gloss or color rub cannot
be replaced or repaired unless you do professional
I've heard that
a Mr. Clean Magic Eraser is a cleaning product with
harsh chemicals. Will I get a purple label from CGC
for restoration from cleaning?
It's true that Mr. Clean Magic Eraser has chemicals
in the product. Despite what many have said online,
Formaldehyde is not and never has been an ingredient
in Magic Eraser. One ingredient in Magic Eraser (formaldehyde-melamine-sodium
bisulfite copolymer) contains the word “formaldehyde”
in its chemical name. However, this ingredient is
not formaldehyde and poses no health or safety risks.
Any of the advice given in this guide has been tested
many times over safely without receiving the dreaded
purple label of restoration. I do not endorse the
use of chemicals or otherwise radical solutions that
would risk the comic book from receiving a purple
label. All of the books displayed on this guide were
cleaned and pressed by me - and have never gotten
a restoration label. Absorene book cleaner putty,
Absorene book cleaner pad, Mr. Clean Magic Eraser,
and non-scented dryer sheets are completely safe.
You have to be careful using very very light gentle
pressure to prevent loss of gloss.
What can I do
about stamps and writing on cover?
Leave any date stamps, store stamps, pen
marks, written names or grocery lists alone inside
books. They are a part of the history of ownership
and provide a tiny window of insight on the owner
and its story. Date stamps, store stamps, and wax
pencils do not take a very big hit if any at all on
grading. Rips, tears, stains, spine splits and detached
staples are what really hit you during grading.
How do I remove
water stains or "tide lines" from comic
That's a great question! That is a very experienced
advanced level technique that will require the use
of distilled water and blotter
paper. Blotter paper can be purchased on Amazon
- it's the exact same product used in calligraphy.
Because the entire pressing guide here is targeted
for amateur level novice pressing, I do not suggest
this method. The guide focuses on dry cleaning methods
only, without the use of chemicals or liquids. To
elaborate on this technique, it is dangerous and not
recommended for inexperienced pressers. You will damage
books, sometimes very expensive books (I have damaged
quite a few of my own trying this out incorrectly).
You want to place and slide a comic book bag (no board)
under cover or pages to separate water from the rest
of the book. The idea is simple: change your mindset
on the idea of a water stain. The goal isn't to remove
the stain, but to simply "transfer" it from
point A to point B. Use a Q-tip and distilled water,
lightly applying distilled water to the stain area
only. Rub q-tip along the stain lines, or "tide
lines". When the area of focus is dilluted with
water, you use blotter paper below and above the stain.
Then you must lift or transfer the stain from the
paper to the blotter paper through the use of a heavy
flat object such as a ceramic tile or a press machine
(with extremely light pressure, with backed-off adjustment
knob) You can use your press machine as a cold press
to transfer the stain this way, too. Next, once you
have seen the stain has been lifted or moved, you
would proceed to use a tack iron to warm and dry the
paper in that concentrated area. After this is completed
successfully, you may proceed to press the book as
normal. Again, this is a very broad vague description
of the process and I do not suggest it for inexperienced
pressers. This technique does apply to most stains,
such as rust, tea, water, rain, coffee, blood. However,
a lot of stains do not come out as well. It also is
necessary sometimes to do this technique 3-4 times
as the stain gets lifted lighter and lighter each
time you do it to the same book. You have to be very
patient and go slow. It's best that you wait until
you've had 2-3 years of pressing experience before
you are ready to tackle this method. (Seriously).
I take zero responsibility using this technique if
you damage your books. You have been warned.
Overstreet Guide To Grading Comics
Guide To Grading Comics
includes the 10-point grading
system, as well as exhaustive descriptions of Primary and
Split Grades, examples of each grade with more than 200 full-color
images in all, articles on storage, preservation, and restoration,
a look at the independent, third-party grading companies,
and much more. You absolutely must own this book if you plan
to buy or sell on ebay. Use this book also as a way to argue
if a book is not in the advertised condition if you feel you
are ripped off.
TUTORIAL VIDEO PLAYLIST
I recently started some tutorial videos that illustrate different
methods and techniques covered on this page. The videos do
not have audio or sound and are shot with a gopro camera in
1080p. I don't want to be that guy, but they take a really
long time to produce and edit so, "Please give a like
and subscribe" Thanks!
to Press Comic Books Playlist by KaptainMyke on Youtube
1949 Quality Comics Group PLASTIC
Before and After
1952 E.C. Publications VAULT OF HORROR #23
(Before and After)
[ Go Top ]
Swiffer, Mr Clean and
the Mr Clean logo are trademarks of Proctor and Gamble and/or
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are trademarks of Ebay.com, Inc. or its affiliates ©2019 Ebay.
Amazon and the Amazon logo are trademarks of Amazon.com, Inc.
or its affiliates ©2019 Amazon. How to Clean and Press Comic Books
by KaptainMyke ®2019 All Rights Reserved ©2019 KaptainMyke and
®2019 Michael Sorensen. The information displayed on this page
is meant to supplement, not replace, proper professional comic
book cleaning and comic book pressing. Like any hobby or craft
involving experience, time, equipment, and environmental factors
- comic book pressing poses some inherent risk. The author and
webmaster advise readers to take full responsibility for their
abilities and know their limits. Before practicing the skills
described on this page, be sure that your equipment is well maintained,
and do not take risks beyond your level of experience, aptitude,
training, and comfort level. Although the author and webmaster
have made every effort to ensure that the information on this
page was correct at timestamp of writing, the author and webmaster
do not assume and hereby disclaim any liability to any party for
any loss, damage, or disruption caused by errors or omissions,
whether such errors or omissions result from negligence, accident,
or any other cause. This is a work of facts and critical thinking
based off user experiences through trial and error. Any similar
combined work of documentation and procedures must be granted
permission through standard Copyright law. Copyright © 2019 by
Michael Frederik Sorensen aka KaptainMyke. All rights reserved.
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