How to Press Comics, Funny Shirts, TMNT Toys - KaptainMyke

Comic books can be dry cleaned for an improved condition using no harsh chemicals or solvents. This step is recommended first before comic book pressing. What is comic book pressing? How to Clean Comic Books using a basic supplies. This is a free DIY FAQ instructional tutorial guide to teach how to clean comics yourself at home.
Updated on 5/17/2019 at 1:15 PM PST


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Comic Book Dry Cleaning


Save money by cleaning your own comic books with basic office supplies or cleaning supplies. Most supplies can be purchased directly on Amazon or eBay to save time, money, and shipping costs. Start small with some cheap dollar bin comic books or reader copies. I have provided links for easy re-ordering, and for clarification on materials required in this free visual FAQ guide.

Comic book dry cleaning is the process of removing stains or production roller marks using no harsh chemicals or solvents. Comics can get stains on them from time, aging, mildew, rust mitigation, crayons, pen marks, pencil marks, date stamps, or other hazards along the test of time. Many of these cannot be removed. Good news: some of the more common concerns can be safely removed. The idea is simple: to clean the comic book as if nothing ever happened to the book. This makes the overall grade and eye appeal of the book increase considerably. Comic book dry cleaning is not restoration, more like comic book conservation. The difference can sometimes mean thousands of dollars when discussing high dollar key comic books.

This guide like my other one will require countless hours of patience, practice and time. Click on any photo to zoom to full size and see all its glory before you.


Most materials can be purchased on Amazon or Ebay. Buy your SRP paper and backer boards in bulk to save money where needed. Absorene Putty lasts a long time as long as you keep the tub sealed airtight when not in use. You will use a bone folder for making new centerfold creases, and for use with tack iron to fix blunted spine trauma. Here is a list of basic materials required for cleaning comics:

  1. Patience and time for all the countless hours you will put into learning this technique.
  2. Box of 100 pairs of powder free latex gloves. Bookmark that reorder button page, too!
  3. Silicone Release Paper (SRP) ULINE has boxes of 1000 sheets cut to size for $85 shipped SAME DAY. (recommended)
  4. Dental tools, specifically a dental pick and scraper.
  5. Absorene Book Cleaner putty 15 oz tub should be reordered over time and throw away each piece after each use. Cannot be reused to be effective. Do not use on Modern Age glossy covers.
  6. Absorene Dirt Eraser Pad should be reordered over time and thrown away after it has become too dirty to be effective. Cannot be cleaned.
  7. Mr Clean Magic Erasers, no scent or fragrance-free. Cut your own 1″ cubes to size. Throw away after 1 use. Cannot be reused.
  8. Lots of non glossy cardboard comic book backer boards of various sizes and thickness.
  9. Golden Age sized Mylite2+Fullbacks for transporting/handling/cleaning/flipping/spinning books
  10. Phone or tablet for photos of your process
  11. Lotion free Kleenex tissues, a dust cloth, or a can of compressed air to blow away dust shavings while cleaning and prepping.
  12. Plastic Sheeting drop cloths. 4' ft x 5' ft work space area at minimum for your work surface and supplies - in a climate controlled room. Do not clean comics in your attic or garage. Purchase some drop cloth plastic sheeting to keep dust and contaminents away from your work area.
  13. Magazine Sized backer boards for use between your SRP paper and the book being pressed. (Required, Important).
  14. White polymer pencil eraser caps. (Do not get the pink ones.)
  15. Flathead screwdriver (staples, positioning, pushing down flat)
  16. Putty or paint knife (staples, positioning, pushing down flat)
  17. Cotton Rounds from the beauty department of any local store like Target or Walmart. Use these first to remove loose dirt and grime from any comic book.
  18. Swiffer Dry Mop Refill Sheets from the cleaning department of any local store like Target or Walmart. Use these above all to remove loose dirt and grime from any comic book. This is an amazing product right here, folks.
  19. Bone Folder tool for pushing down staples on squarebounds, working out spine blunts and making new centerfold folds.
  20. Magazine Sized bags for use with magazine backer boards. Assemble a few pairs and have ready for transferring and flipping comic books over.








Click on each button to order online:




Use all the tools in your toolbox for dry cleaning comics. This ranges from non-invasive to more aggressive stages of comic book dry cleaning.


The comic book dry cleaning tools used to safely and effectively clean comics. These products are highly recommended for cleaning comics.




You will use many different products to clean comics. These are the main tools you will need to use. All of these products should be used gently and lightly. Small circular motions, back and forth, left to right, diagonally. Try different light motions to see which motion will effectively lift a light stain or debris from comic book covers.

Here is a full list of tools from left to right, row by row:

Blotter Paper
Absorene Eraser Pad
Makeup remover Cotton Ovals
Makeup remover Cotton Rounds
Toungue Depressor / Craft Sticks
Number 2 Pencils with White soft eraser caps
UV Black Light Flashlight
Pocket handheld pen flashlight
Small flathead screwdriver
1.5" Ball Bearing or Massage Roller Ball
Jeweler's Loupe
Dentail Picks and Dental Mirror
Plastic Erasers
Sea Sponge
Kneaded Eraser
Absorene Book Cleaner Putty
Kleenex Small Lotion Free Tissues
Infared IR Thermometer Gun
Mr Clean Magic Erasers in various cube sizes cut
Hangar 9 Tack Iron

Also, worthy of consideration is Swiffer brand dry mop dust sheets as cleaning pads. This product is great and will safely lift most dirt and grime layers off comic books. Try it!




My dry cleaning toolbox of various tools and cleaners. My most widely used items I placed inside a metal storage tin. The other less used items or items that take up space I placed in a larger plastic storage container. Take notice of the ball bearing, magnifying glass, jeweler's loop, kneaded eraser, natural sea sponges, pencils with eraser tops, UV blacklight flashlight, Absorene putty, and two Absorene book cleaner pads.








What I do is approach every book with cautious cleaning tactics first, to see what is effective with the least effort. Less invasive first, to a more increased aggressive cleaning stage each time, to see what works. I like to start small, slowly increasing my efforts:

First, start by carefully chipping or scraping away gunk, boogers, candy, or mud with a dental pick. Press down staples flat with a putty knife or flathead screwdriver. Those 2 are priority before you begin dry cleaning:

Start small and work your way down the list one-by-one as needed:


    1. Swiffer Dust Sheets, Lotion free tissue, or a cotton round from beauty department
    2. Pencil Eraser Head Top + Absorene Book Cleaner Pad (for cleaning eraser top)
    3. Unscented Dryer Sheet with eraser head as a "handle"
    4. Unscented Paper Towel with eraser head as a "handle"
    5. Absorene Eraser Pad
    6. Absorene Book Cleaner Putty
    7. Unscented/untreated original Mr Clean Magic Eraser 1" cube
    8. Natural sea sponges


And if you alternate all of them together you will yield better results. For instance, go back and forth between the magic eraser and absorene book cleaner putty along the spine to clean out all the dirt that gets pushed into the trenches of the creases.

The Mr. Clean Magic Eraser is harsh and should be used lightly on light colored or white colored covers and avoid red/black/yellow if you can.

The first question you should ask is: Does this book need to be dry cleaned? Signs the book would benefit from dry cleaning:

  1. Production roller marks
  2. Preparation for a comic book convention for a signing
  3. Using a third party presser prior to using a grading service for a signature series yellow label
  4. Valuable
  5. Rarity
  6. Pencil writing marks
  7. Dirt sheen
  8. Skin and dander oil
  9. Blood
  10. Boogers
  11. Hair
  12. Candy
  13. Wax crayon


Dry cleaning comic books improves the overall look and feel of a book. It is not divine intervention. Things dry cleaning will not fix:

  1. Miswraps
  2. Kool-Aid or Coffee/Tea Staining
  3. Foxing
  4. Rust
  5. Ink, ballpoint pen, crayon, marker, Sharpie pen
  6. Missing pages, pieces, tears
  7. Staple placement
  8. Rounded corners
  9. Edgewear
  10. Deep indentations that travel through then entire book on every page
  11. Crease lines with missing ink (color breaks)



You will need to practice first on 6 basic types of comic books to learn the process slowly. Practice on your own books first. Practice treating each book as if it were priceless.

  1. Golden Age Comic Books
  2. Silver Age Comic Books
  3. Bronze Age Comic Books
  4. Modern Age Comic Books
  5. Convention Exclusive Foil Edition Comic Books (Convention exclusives) are more intimidating if anything. Watch your fingerprints! Always wear gloves.
  6. Modern Age Marvel books have digital code inserts found at the last 4 pages. You will need to use copy paper sheets, or a magazine backer board to prevent the 1″ square digital code from imprinting on last 4-5 pages and back cover. Do not press down too hard while cleaning these books.

There are more to practice on, but this is a great head start for the learning process. Different books require different angles of approach. Practice how you handle a comic book as well. Always wear gloves. Always lift and remove comics from their bag/board by pulling the entire comic and board from the bag. Always use a second bag/board to flip books over so they are supported.






Wear a fresh pair of latex gloves as you get started. Take a moment to examine the book. Always lift comic books out with the backer board as you slide them out of the bag. You do not want to scratch the back cover. Do not press books with food, gum, or candy debris. You will need to remove it prior to pressing. Even if this means scraping or damaging part of the book to get it off. Sometimes color breaks and ink removal are part of the debris removal. You have to use judgement and experience whether it will benefit or harm the book's overall value, condition, and appearance. Mark Jeweler insert comic books and other books with centerfold posters should be okay. Digital codes and tattooz inserts are different and will require a few extra steps covered elsewhere in the guide.

Okay, so what are you looking for prior to pressing or cleaning a comic book? Research is part of your job. Especially if the book is to be sent off for grading with CGC or CBCS or PGX. Look at every angle, every corner of the book. Take photos with your tablet or phone. Take extra time to inspect the corners and spine around the staples. What is the difference between a 9.8 and a 9.6? 1 tiny color breaking spine tick or edgewear. Seriously. Assume that all books are a 5.0 and add or subtract points based off the following criteria:

  1. Look for and count the spine ticks.
  2. Color breaking lines along the spine.
  3. Rounded corners.
  4. Edge-wear along the spine.
  5. Edge-wear along the top and bottom covers.
  6. Edge-wear on the corners.
  7. Production error lines.
  8. Scrapes or light scratches on the back cover.
  9. Amateur restoration techniques.
  10. Super valuable key books should be inspected for color touch, just in case.
  11. Staple replacement. Verify staple prongs line up with indents.
  12. Gloss or missing gloss on cover.
  13. Writing on cover.
  14. Writing on interior pages.
  15. Missing interior wraps. (may or may not effect story)
  16. Inserts. (research: poster centerfold, advertisements, tattooz, stickers, coupons)
  17. Spine splits at top or bottom.
  18. 1" or longer tear on cover.
  19. Page Quality. (White, Off-White, Cream, Tan)
  20. Page count. (research: verify there are no missing pages)
  21. Rust, Foxing, or Tanning. (brown or black spots)
  22. Dust shade, sun fading.
  23. Pin holes.

Use a dental pick and scraper to carefully lift and place tears or folds where they should be before pressing or cleaning.

As long as the book is not brittle or rigid… Look for corner flaps and tears that need to be set in place. This step should be done first while the book is dry and not under any heat or pressure. You will use a dental pick and scraper for this step. If the book is too brittle or old, then you should use the humidity chamber approach after cleaning the covers instead.

It may be tempting to just use your fingernail, but could potentially rip or tear the crease worse. Dirt and oil under your fingernails could get trapped in the paper fibers as well. Golden age books are very forgiving with corner flaps and minor tears.

You want to do this step first before cleaning or pressing. This step is important to try to inspect the book carefully and turn each page for inspection. You are also looking for cutouts, missing pages, and missing centerfolds during this stage.



Absorene Dirt Eraser Pads are the greatest tool to start with dry cleaning the cover of your book. Get one here at this link on Amazon.







First start off wiping the cover with a cotton round, lotion free kleenex tissues, or a Swiffer wipe. Use a dental pick and scraper to carefully lift and place tears or folds where they should be before pressing or cleaning. For dry cleaning, it’s always best to start in a non-aggressive manner, so start small with just a simple clean eraser from a Number 2 pencil. I also use eraser tops as well. You will need to clean your pencil eraser often as you lift the dirt and oils from your comic book.




Cleaning a book should be approached in stages. Starting with latex rubber gloves, use a dental pick for lifting up folds and creases. Do this first. Lightly dust off and wipe the surface clean lightly with a lotion free Kleenex, dust cloth, or a can of compressed air. Try using a regular unsharpened #2 pencil eraser end to remove light staining on cover. This noninvasive method is recommended before using anything else.





My #1 favorite tool in the toolbox: Helix brand white polymer eraser cap tops.



Use the Absorense Eraser Pad to clean your pencil eraser top.




Next, if you have an Absorene Dirt Eraser Pad, wipe this across the surface of both front and back covers. Use the eraser pad lightly, let the weight of the pad be the only pressure as you gently glide it across the cover surface to remove dirt and oil.



Dirt and oil grime from production on a brand new modern age marvel 1:1000 retailer incentive copy of Venom #1 (2018)


(After) Dirt and oil grime removed from production on a brand new modern age marvel 1:1000 retailer incentive copy of Venom #1 (2018) Using a simple pencil eraser top.








For those of you who struggle with "taking a little too much off the top" using a pencil cap eraser for cleaning: practice on a book with an all-black back cover ad for TSR games. (Please - Not an Amazing Spider-man 300!) This would be an excellent type of book that will test your limits on fingerprints, gloss, black ink, and white letters. In the following examples of WEB OF SPIDER-MAN #36 (1st Tombstone) I have exercised great restraint while cleaning this cover. I started with a Swiffer dry sweeper wipe, and used only a pencil eraser and Absorene book cleaner pad for cleaning my eraser tip. You hold the pencil by the un-sharpened opposite end very loosely, completely with a limp wrist. If you hold the pencil this way, you move your entire arm in light circular swirls, clockwise, then counter-clockwise, whichever works best. Do not use your wrist or hands. You should be putting all the pressure at your elbows and not the eraser cap. This method will prevent taking gloss, color rub, and scratches! If the eraser is ineffective, alternate with Absorene book cleaner pad as well, then the Swiffer duster sheet. If you are successful, then you will see only "brownish yellow" or "black" colors on your eraser tips. There should be no blue tint to your black dirt eraser crumbles on the tip or table surface. A blue tint to your blacks means you are taking the black ink. Furthermore, this method works on all colors and covers, so you should never see color on your pencil eraser caps. If you do, back off and clean your eraser tip and use even LESS pressure than what you just did. Keep regularly checking your eraser cap after each cleaning with your Absorene book cleaner pad. Remember: if the dirt isn't coming up on your pencil eraser cap or swiffer dust sheet, then it's not going to be removed. This is okay, remember that our job here is to clean and press, not restore or repair. This is a patient man's game and will take time. Allow me to remind you that if you spend an hour (or more) cleaning a book it's worth it once it's been placed inside a plastic graded case.





So this is a pretty big secret, even if you don’t press comics! You can clean most comic book covers in this manner, regardless if you are pressing the book or not! You don’t need a press in order to perform this method.





Use Absorene putty next to delicately lift dirt and oils. You roll lightly and gently across the surface to remove and clean the paper at its fibers. If you do not have Absorene, try using a regular pencil eraser or a gum kneaded eraser. You will have to knead and work in the eraser until it becomes soft like the Absorene. Never rub the kneaded eraser, always blot or push downwards then lift upwards with straight up and down motions. Never use the kneaded gum eraser sideways or against the paper grain. Most of the time, 90% of the time, the pencil eraser and absorene eraser pad will do most of the work for you. If you cannot lift a stain, that’s okay – just remember we are not restoring comic books.




Go slow with the Absorene around corners and tears. You should place a perpendicular mylite2+fullback against your hand so that you do not lift up the cover or page being cleaned.






Absorene comes inside a small plastic storage tub. It looks and feels like Play-doh. You want to take small 1/2″ cubes and roll it across the surface of your book covers and pages for dry chemical free cleaning. You will roll very lightly with light pressure as you roll “logs” across the surface being cleaned. I also have great results with warming the book up in the press for 5 minutes on each side on low heat at 150 degrees. When using the Absorene, take great care along cover edges and corners or you will lift up the cover unexpectedly and cause a crease. Worse yet, if you go too fast due to being impatient with your time – you can cause a rip and tear the cover. It helps tremendously to use backer boards to the left and right of the areas being rolled with Absorene. Try it to see if this works for you.





Absorene Book Cleaner Putty should be used only on older books with covers that are not glossy or shiny. Avoid modern comic books with paper thin covers. The putty can easily rub into the book cover and cause severe and permanent damage. This is why I would suggest trying a pencil eraser or kneaded eraser on Modern Age books, instead. The Absorene Book Cleaner Putty works best on Silver Age, Copper Age, Dark Age and even most Bronze Age books. Any book produced after the year 2000 should be tested out on a reader copy first when considering the Absorene Putty. See below:

2018 Marvel Comics VENOM #3 San Diego Comic Con Exclusive








Cut 1″ cubes of Mr Clean Magic Eraser to alternate from Absorene and Eraser along spines. Never reuse a magic eraser cube. Apply firm but gentle pressure against book. Erasers are best used for white or light covers. Avoid red and black with the magic eraser!



For small spaces or around dark print area, use a pencil eraser with a tiny torn off piece of clean magic eraser material. Use the pencil as a hand tool to better control the magic eraser around corners, spines, or red/black/yellow print area.

Magic Erasers are great for white rear covers or white front covers. Warning: Black, Red and Yellow ink are easily lifted off the cover with the Magic Eraser! Use a Mr. Clean magic eraser very carefully. Always cut fresh 1” cubes with scissors. If you try to keep re-using the same magic eraser, you will start rubbing dirt into all the crease lines of comics, which creates new dark crease lines and makes the visual appeal start to drop significantly, so be warned about the magic eraser! Use this product with light pressure. Never use circular swirls when trying to lift up staining with a magic eraser. Make swift light strokes in one direction, never back and forth, and never in swirls. This will take time. Do not wax on and wax off. You only wax one way. You do not want to send the very same dirt lifted up from the magic eraser into a crease line crevice or crack on cover.



For small spaces or around dark print area, use a pencil eraser with a tiny torn off piece of clean magic eraser material. Use the pencil as a hand tool to better control the magic eraser around corners, spines, or red/black/yellow print area.

This is why you should alternate with the Absorene and the Magic Eraser. After using the Magic Eraser, it causes white powder dust shavings filled with dirt and oil. Even using a new Magic Eraser cube will push those shavings and dust back into the cracks and crevices of the spine being worked on. You will need to blow the dust away with a can of air. Alternate and use the Absorene to clean the area just cleaned with the Magic Eraser. Back and forth. Patience is key. Sometimes it feels like the Absorene just isn’t working but it is. Keep at it and you will eventually start to see staining and other debris being lifted slowly. It takes time to figure this one out. The magic eraser is very forgiving on white or light covers. However, use extreme caution using this technique on all black covers or very dark covers. The magic eraser does lift ink! Because of this, most professionals do not advise using a Mr Clean Magic Eraser. Most will suggest to use Absorene, because it is actually made for cleaning historical documents and archival paper such as the Library of Congress. If you are just starting out and learning the whole process, try using these products on some cheap books first to get a feel of the process. Remember, this is just a guide for beginners!





Before and after back cover photos of upper right corner dirt oil buildup along a staple bump. Magic Eraser and Absorene did wonders to this corner with minimal effort to lift the staining.



Before and after back cover photos of upper right corner dirt oil buildup along a staple bump. Magic Eraser and Absorene did wonders to this corner with minimal effort to lift the staining.








Wear latex gloves. Use a small 2" square of SRP Paper and spin a pencil eraser top back and forth for a long deep scratch. Use a lotion free, fragrance free kleenex tissue folded and start lightly buffing in circles using little to no pressure at all for light or faint scratches. Unscented dryer sheets sometimes work, too. Many deep scratches on black covers cannot be removed.

For fingerprints, wear gloves and use two wadded up lotion free, fragrance free kleenex tissues, buffing in circles using little to no pressure at all. It helps to exhale your warm breath across the surface before buffing an area. The safest method for fingerprints and scratches is:

1. Wear gloves
2. Lotion free, fragrance free kleenex tissues
3. Buff in circles using little to no pressure at all








Staples can push through the front and rear cover. Dirt and oil like to get trapped around elevated bumps along staple on back cover. Cleaning staples is not recommended either. Watch for rub and try not to clean them or scratch them up too much. It can be evident if there is staple cleaning with third party Grading Companies such as CGC and CBCS so I caution you on scuffing up staples. Rusty staples should be lightly scuffed but I would not recommend it.






There is a dedicated Facebook Group called "KaptainMyke Comic Book Pressing" for anyone to join and contribute ideas open for discussion. Ask questions about this guide or show off your own books! Anyone is welcome to join. I firmly believe the spread of accurate free information will help us all keep books preserved and conserved. You may find the Facebook Group at this link here:






Try to be non-invasive with your books. Start small and work your way up to more aggressive tactics when removing stubborn stains or writing. These tips will hopefully save you money, and guide you along the way as YOU learn and pick up new ideas and better ways to accomplish things.

I've had a number of people ask me via email if I have a paypal account for sending donations as a way of saying "thanks" for the continuing efforts of this "living document" teaching people how to safely press comic books. This is not required by any means, but if you feel compelled to do so, you may send a donation to this link:

Shareable Links:

Thank you!










Here is a list of common questions often asked in our Facebook group. Chances are, it's been asked many times over, so I decided to insert this added section right here for you all to review.


Is this the only "correct" way to clean comic books?
No! There are many ways to clean comic books. Many professionals do it differently! There is always more than one way to achieve the same favorable results.


I rubbed too much of the gloss off cover of book. Can this be repaired or fixed?
Sorry, loss of gloss or color rub cannot be replaced or repaired unless you do professional restoration.


I've heard that a Mr. Clean Magic Eraser is a cleaning product with harsh chemicals. Will I get a purple label from CGC for restoration from cleaning?
It's true that Mr. Clean Magic Eraser has chemicals in the product. Despite what many have said online, Formaldehyde is not and never has been an ingredient in Magic Eraser. One ingredient in Magic Eraser (formaldehyde-melamine-sodium bisulfite copolymer) contains the word “formaldehyde” in its chemical name. However, this ingredient is not formaldehyde and poses no health or safety risks. Any of the advice given in this guide has been tested many times over safely without receiving the dreaded purple label of restoration. I do not endorse the use of chemicals or otherwise radical solutions that would risk the comic book from receiving a purple label. All of the books displayed on this guide were cleaned and pressed by me - and have never gotten a restoration label. Absorene book cleaner putty, Absorene book cleaner pad, Mr. Clean Magic Eraser, and non-scented dryer sheets are completely safe. You have to be careful using very very light gentle pressure to prevent loss of gloss.


What can I do about stamps and writing on cover?
Leave any date stamps, store stamps, pen marks, written names or grocery lists alone inside books. They are a part of the history of ownership and provide a tiny window of insight on the owner and its story. Date stamps, store stamps, and wax pencils do not take a very big hit if any at all on grading. Rips, tears, stains, spine splits and detached staples are what really hit you during grading.


How do I remove water stains or "tide lines" from comic books?
That's a great question! That is a very experienced advanced level technique that will require the use of distilled water and blotter paper. Blotter paper can be purchased on Amazon - it's the exact same product used in calligraphy. Because the entire pressing guide here is targeted for amateur level novice pressing, I do not suggest this method. The guide focuses on dry cleaning methods only, without the use of chemicals or liquids. To elaborate on this technique, it is dangerous and not recommended for inexperienced pressers. You will damage books, sometimes very expensive books (I have damaged quite a few of my own trying this out incorrectly). You want to place and slide a comic book bag (no board) under cover or pages to separate water from the rest of the book. The idea is simple: change your mindset on the idea of a water stain. The goal isn't to remove the stain, but to simply "transfer" it from point A to point B. Use a Q-tip and distilled water, lightly applying distilled water to the stain area only. Rub q-tip along the stain lines, or "tide lines". When the area of focus is dilluted with water, you use blotter paper below and above the stain. Then you must lift or transfer the stain from the paper to the blotter paper through the use of a heavy flat object such as a ceramic tile or a press machine (with extremely light pressure, with backed-off adjustment knob) You can use your press machine as a cold press to transfer the stain this way, too. Next, once you have seen the stain has been lifted or moved, you would proceed to use a tack iron to warm and dry the paper in that concentrated area. After this is completed successfully, you may proceed to press the book as normal. Again, this is a very broad vague description of the process and I do not suggest it for inexperienced pressers. This technique does apply to most stains, such as rust, tea, water, rain, coffee, blood. However, a lot of stains do not come out as well. It also is necessary sometimes to do this technique 3-4 times as the stain gets lifted lighter and lighter each time you do it to the same book. You have to be very patient and go slow. It's best that you wait until you've had 2-3 years of pressing experience before you are ready to tackle this method. (Seriously). I take zero responsibility using this technique if you damage your books. You have been warned.














The Overstreet Guide To Grading Comics
The Overstreet Guide To Grading Comics includes the 10-point grading system, as well as exhaustive descriptions of Primary and Split Grades, examples of each grade with more than 200 full-color images in all, articles on storage, preservation, and restoration, a look at the independent, third-party grading companies, and much more. You absolutely must own this book if you plan to buy or sell on ebay. Use this book also as a way to argue if a book is not in the advertised condition if you feel you are ripped off.







I recently started some tutorial videos that illustrate different methods and techniques covered on this page. The videos do not have audio or sound and are shot with a gopro camera in 1080p. I don't want to be that guy, but they take a really long time to produce and edit so, "Please give a like and subscribe" Thanks!

How to Press Comic Books Playlist by KaptainMyke on Youtube

How to Press Comic Books Playlist by KaptainMyke on Youtube






1949 Quality Comics Group PLASTIC MAN #17
Before and After

1952 E.C. Publications VAULT OF HORROR #23
(Before and After)

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Swiffer, Mr Clean and the Mr Clean logo are trademarks of Proctor and Gamble and/or its affiliates ©2019 Mr Clean and Swiffer. Ebay and the Ebay logo are trademarks of, Inc. or its affiliates ©2019 Ebay. Amazon and the Amazon logo are trademarks of, Inc. or its affiliates ©2019 Amazon. How to Clean and Press Comic Books by KaptainMyke ®2019 All Rights Reserved ©2019 KaptainMyke and ®2019 Michael Sorensen. The information displayed on this page is meant to supplement, not replace, proper professional comic book cleaning and comic book pressing. Like any hobby or craft involving experience, time, equipment, and environmental factors - comic book pressing poses some inherent risk. The author and webmaster advise readers to take full responsibility for their abilities and know their limits. Before practicing the skills described on this page, be sure that your equipment is well maintained, and do not take risks beyond your level of experience, aptitude, training, and comfort level. Although the author and webmaster have made every effort to ensure that the information on this page was correct at timestamp of writing, the author and webmaster do not assume and hereby disclaim any liability to any party for any loss, damage, or disruption caused by errors or omissions, whether such errors or omissions result from negligence, accident, or any other cause. This is a work of facts and critical thinking based off user experiences through trial and error. Any similar combined work of documentation and procedures must be granted permission through standard Copyright law. Copyright © 2019 by Michael Frederik Sorensen aka KaptainMyke. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, distributed, or transmitted in any form or by any means, including photocopying, recording, or other electronic or mechanical methods, without the prior written permission of the author and webmaster, except in the case of brief quotations embodied in critical reviews and certain other noncommercial uses permitted by copyright law. For permission requests, write to



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